Sunday, May 6, 2007

Shopping in Moscow




The showpiece of the Soviet economy was the GUM department store, which faces the Kremlin across Red Square. Goods can be found at much cheaper prices in other parts of the city, so it is a good idea to see what is on offer at GUM and then buy elsewhere. Popular shopping streets in the area include Novy Arbat, a major thoroughfare to the west of the Kremlin, and the Arbat that runs parallel to it. Okhoktny Ryad, the newest of the arcades in Moscow, is also worth a visit, if only to see Russian aspirational consumerism gone mad. Built by Moscow's mayor Yuri Luzhkov at a princely sum of $350 million it is as much a tribute to consumerism as his other brainchild, the Khram Khrista Spassenya, is a symbol of Russia's religious renaissance. Tverskaya, heading north from Red Square, is Moscow's most fashionable shopping street and the address of some expensive boutiques Classic Russian chic can be found at Valentin Yudashkin on Kutuzovsky Prospekt.

For the souvenir hunter Alekh and Kholui lacquered boxes make attractive gifts, as do the traditional Matryoshka dolls (wooden dolls within dolls) and samovars. Other options are Khokhloma wooden cups, saucers and spoons (painted gold, red and black) and Dymkovskaya Igrushka pottery figurines based on


popular folklore characters. Engraved amber, Gzhel porcelain, Vologda lace and Fabergе eggs and jewellery are highly sought after. Mementoes from the Red Army abound. Izmailovskii Park has a good craft market at the weekends and with careful bartering can stretch those dollars a bit further.

Antiques, valuables, works of art and manuscripts other than those offered for sale in souvenir shops may not be taken out of the Russian Federation without an export licence. For a real taste of Russia visit the Cheremushinsky Rynok on Lomonovksy Prospekt which gathers together fresh produce from all corners of the former Soviet Union. Do not expect pristine hygiene, but bargains are plentiful. Shopping hours are Monday to Saturday 0900-1700; there are a number of shops open 24-hours a day. VAT of 20% is added to consumer goods, claiming it back is a very complicated system and seldom possible except in the high-class tourist shops. (source)

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